Enchiladas de mole

Corn tortillas rolled around chicken under a dark mole, finished with crema and crumbled queso fresco.

The mole is the kitchen's long project — chiles, seeds, spices, and chocolate ground and simmered until it turns dark and quiet. It's rolled over chicken in corn tortillas, finished with crema and sesame, and it tastes like someone's grandmother is checking the pot. Someone's is.

Serving San Diego and nearby Barrio Logan, Logan Heights, Sherman Heights, Golden Hill, Downtown San Diego, National City.